Suits have a very common look, but their varieties extend beyond digits, varying in cuts, stitching, fit, and overall style. One easy way to distinguish them is through their cuts. Let’s discuss some major cut styles within the category: British, American, Italian, and Mandarin.
But before we jump into learning suit cuts, it's important to understand key parts of a suit that make up the whole garment.
Shoulder pads: These give the jacket its shape and help create a neat, structured look around the shoulders.
Lapels: These are the folded pieces of fabric on the front of the jacket. They frame the chest and are one of the most noticeable details of a suit.
Gorge line: This is the line where the lapel meets the collar. Its position can change the overall look and proportions of the jacket.
Buttons: Besides fastening the jacket, buttons can add to its overall style. Their number, size, and placement can vary between different suits.
Waistcoat: A sleeveless piece worn underneath the jacket, usually as part of a three-piece suit. It adds an extra layer and gives the outfit a more formal appearance.
Trouser pleats: These are the folds of fabric at the front of the trousers. They give the trousers a little more room and make them more comfortable to wear.
Now let us look deeper into various cut-styles of a standard suit in detail.
Also known as the pioneer of modern suits, England's King Charles II is said to be the one who introduced suits for Englishmen to distinguish them from the extravagant French population. He proposed that men wear a long coat, waistcoat (vest), and breeches to complete the outfit.
The rise of dandyism and fashion experiments gave rise to modern suits in today’s form.
The British cut is also called the English cut, which is known for its body-fitting and defined shoulder features.
The jacket features double vents, which made horse-riding more practical, but they eventually became a fashion symbol to make one look taller and leaner. The buttons of this cut are placed at an appropriate length on the jacket.
The lapels are usually thin, and coats can be single- or double-breasted. The gorge lines are usually lower. They also have a thick and stiff fabric with heavy shoulder pads for a broader look.
Trousers on the other side are high-waisted and fitted to perfection. The British cut is also a classic and widely worn suit style adopted commonly by men.
Termed ‘sack suit’ for its loose-fitting style, the Brooks Brothers company in the 20th century is known for the influential ready-to-wear American cut suits.
Some important features to identify an American cut are: they have a single vent, flap pockets, and softer fabrics. Its major distinction is the baggy ensemble it creates when put together.
The coats are also single-breasted and have a gorge at a medium length. The jacket buttons are usually placed lower than in other cut styles.
The trousers are non-pleated with a baggy fit, mostly a style commonly adopted as a traditional look by the older generation. But nowadays, fashion influencers and the sudden surge in baggy clothing have made this style prominent again.
After WWII, Italian styles had a major boom, and suit styles started to emerge throughout Italy.
The Italian tapered V-cut silhouette is said to be popularised on the global stage by Italian fashion house Brioni in their 1952 runway show.
Traditionally, these cuts are more tightly fitted, with no vents for the jacket, but contemporary styles have adopted using single vents. Shoulders range from lightly structured to padded depending on the regional style. Lapels are given prominence, and buttons are positioned higher than in other cut styles.
The jacket has pockets, but no flap, and the trousers are body-fitted, even thinner than a British cut, giving a more modern and elegant look. Italian cuts are also classified into Roman, Neapolitan, and Milanese, depending on their regional styles.
Widely worn in parts of Asia, the Mandarin suit's origin can be traced back to China. Its most distinct feature is the unfolded, short, straight-up collar, which differs from the lapel and folded style of Western suits.
The style is also widely worn in India, where it is called ‘Nehru collar’, named after the country’s first prime minister who popularised the style. It also has other terminologies like ‘Mao collar’ in China, ‘Grandad collar’ in the UK, among others.
The jackets are fully adorned with buttons, which are worn all the way up. Vents are usually absent in this style. It is primarily paired with a mandarin-collared shirt to complete the look. The trousers are straight-fit, complementing the fit upper layer.
Even though each and every cut has its own distinct features and unique styles, the emergence of custom-style suits and emerging fashion statements allowed all of them to integrate and mix with each other, creating a sort of personal style rather than traditionally followed stitching guidelines.
Moreover, learning the varieties and its origin will make the styles rejuvenate even more, creating an open space for ideas to develop to build on more cuts and styles for the emerging trends.